Showing posts with label death. Show all posts
Showing posts with label death. Show all posts

Friday, 18 January 2013

9: Triple bill! La Bohème, Les Mis and The Minotaur


La Bohème at Hackney Picture House
Visited on Tuesday 15 January 2013

Les Misérables at Hackney Picture House
Visited on Wednesday 16 January 2013

The Minotaur at Royal Opera House
Visited on Thursday 17 January 2013

Since I haven’t written for a while, and as this is to be the penultimate contribution to the culturecake project, I thought I’d go for an unprecendented ‘three in one’. It has been a week of culture consumption bordering on the extreme as I’ve been spending the daytimes doing my revision on opera and ballet in preparation for my new job that starts on Monday, while three consecutive evenings have seen me heading out for some kind of musical / theatrical piece of entertainment.

The first was Puccini’s La Bohème, on Tuesday night. I’ve seen the opera only once before – almost 20 years ago at the Oxford Apollo, when Welsh National Opera visited. I don’t remember too much about it, except for thinking that the final scene where Mimi succumbs to her illness and dies her frail, tiny, cold little death was a bit difficult to believe given the robust corpulence of the soprano playing the role…

Tonight’s performance was a ‘delayed live’ relay from the Royal Opera House, ie it was recorded live last week and we were watching the unedited footage from that. There are some significant advantages to watching a performance like this in the cinema: for a start the cost of a very comfortable, modern seat is £20 and you can take your wine in with you; at the Opera House proper, the same view would cost you about £165, the seat would be narrow and apparently designed for the sole purpose of giving you backache, and there’s no way the apparently deferential but actually Nazi stewards would let you into that auditorium with a glass of anything. Additionally, at the cinema you get the ROH’s Music Director Antonio Pappano on the screen before it starts to give you a plot summary and to tell you all sorts of interesting things about the music and staging and so on. The disadvantage is that you don’t get the magical atmosphere of being in such a grand place as the Royal Opera House, with its poncey staircases and people dressed up to the nines and interval drinks that cost the same as food to feed a family of four for a week. The nice thing about the ROH’s ‘wear what you like’ policy is that you can go along in jeans and still get to hang out with people in fancy outfits who make you feel like you’re part of a posh and special experience.

Anyway, there was none of that at Hackney Picturehouse, although thankfully there was a gentleman in the audience who was of that sort, if you know what I mean. When the opera started there were no subtitles on the screen, Sir Ponce took it upon himself to stand up and boom ‘SHALL I COMPLAIN?’ – to which general assent was murmured and lo, within minutes the subtitles had appeared and we were spared having to watch 2.75 hours of Italian opera with no translation.

To be honest, I do wonder whether it would have mattered. Puccini’s music is, as well as being generally lush and gorgeous, quite consciously descriptive of the words it sets. Combined with some properly excellent acting from every member of the cast, we probably would have been fairly clear about what was going on even without subtitles. This production, directed by John Copley, has been around even longer than I have – it was first staged in 1974. It’s easy to see why the Opera House hasn’t changed it in those 38 years. 1830s Paris is wonderfully evoked by the detailed sets and costumes. The staging (which mainly involves the draughty apartment shared by the four student artists Rodolfo, Marcello, Schaunard and Colline) is presented on multiple levels, and there’s always something to look at and lots of opportunity for interesting movement by the singers.

I have always thought opera plots were a bit far-fetched – I mean, really? You really fell in love after gazing at each other for about 30 seconds and exchanging a couple of well-executed high notes? Obviously though, you have to suspend quite a bit of disbelief for this artform and rely on the talents of the director and musicians in the pit and on the stage to make that easy for you.

As an example, La Bohème (The Bohemians) starts with the four chaps bantering and generally horsing around at their apartment, bemoaning their poverty with mock-drama and silly antics. When his chums head off to the pub, Rodolfo is the only one in to answer the door to poor Mimi, whose candle has gone out so she can’t see her way up the stairs. Rodolfo swoons over how lovely she is, there is a bit of flirting, then she drops her key on the floor by mistake and they both fumble around in the dark for it, which results in the fizzing contact of Rodolfo’s manly mano and Mimi’s tiny frozen one, leading to the first famous aria ‘Chè gelida manina’. Over the course of the next 5 minutes, Rodolfo basically sings her his CV, she tells him about how she adores flowers and the smell of spring and then, boom, they are fully in love and pledging never to leave each other. Riiiight.

Yet, from the beginning the absolutely superb quality of the singing and acting draws you right in to the world where such happenings are completely normal. The banter between the four students was heart-warmingly believable, and though it’s set at a time and in a world so different from today, I think most people can identify with that kind of housemate vibe. Dmytro Popov’s portrayal of Rodolfo was such a great combination of honest and subtle that I found myself quietly cheering him on as he poured out his heart to Mimi, even though if a man did this to me only two minutes after us meeting, I’d be quite freaked out by it.

The good thing about this opera is that the story rattles along without any wastage – the economic informational conversations lead to one beautiful aria after another, none of which are overblown. There are glory moments for all the principal singers to show what they can do. Stefania Dovhan, playing Musetta, was brilliant (and slutty) as she sang her famous Waltz aria in Act 2, while provocatively running her hand up and down a pool cue, in her attempt to seduce former lover Marcello (played by Audun Iversen, with a goatee that made him look a bit like Ben Affleck). After various machinations involving either provoked or unprovoked jealousy on the part of both couples, and some jolly slapstick with a real live dog, we get to the closing scenes where poor Mimi’s frailty is now a serious concern. Essentially she has TB, and that, combined with a separation from Rodolfo in Act 3, has precipitated The End. She ends up dying round at the four students’ flat, after they’ve made really touching gestures to sell their own personal items to pay for a doctor and some medicine. Both I and Brother B Man the Mystic were fully and genuinely in tears when Rodolfo, who’d been holding up pretty well, finally turned away from Mimi and started sobbing himself, realising that she was done for. I imagine there’s lots of scope for overdoing this, but it was all the more affecting for being controlled. I massively recommend seeing this production, which is on at Covent Garden until 12 March.

The subject of crying and potentially overdoing it brings me on to Wednesday night, when I was back at Hackney Picturehouse again. This is now my third visit this month, and I’m so glad to have discovered this awesome cinema. There is a really nice bar as soon as you walk in – and there are CAKES, plus a proper menu of very delicious-looking food. If you become a member (£35 for the year) you get a discount on everything and don’t have to pay for online booking. All this is very good. I didn’t intend to go and see Tom Hooper’s new film version of the musical Les Misérables but Joshi Dreams of Sushi (an ace-looking documentary about a sushi chef) was sold out and I thought I might as well see something since I was there. I’ve seen the stage musical twice before – once in Manchester in about 1994 and once when it was still at the Palace Theatre in Cambridge Circus (as part of a most regrettable date). Both times I thought the music was a bit lightweight and that the whole show just seemed a bit flimsy. This film version certainly isn’t flimsy! The cinematography is sumptuously coloured and really spectacular in places, and, unencumbered by the limits of an actual stage, the director is able to use wide shots and sequences to fill in plot gaps that would only otherwise be communicated in the sung dialogue, so that helps the whole thing to feel a bit more substantial.

I was interested in two things about the casting – first that none of the actors are well-known as singers, and second, their vocal performances were captured live at the same time as their acting. This worked really well I thought, lending extra believability to vocal performances that were for the most part very convincing. Russell Crowe was the weak link in terms of singing, honking away slightly out of tune and without quite pulling off the emotion, but the other performances made up for it. Hugh Jackman was great as Jean Valjean, the hard done by bread-thief-cum-slave who makes good after a brush with the Lord and a few bloody decent actions towards his fellow man. His singing voice isn’t the most powerful, but he really, really meant it and it was hard not to be touched by his delivery. Anne Hathaway has the show’s big hit I dreamed a dream, but rather than belting it out Susan Boyle-style, she delivered it like the pathetic, delicate song that it is – and it was so much the better for it. Apparently she starved herself to get thin enough to play the role, and it was genuinely quite heartbreaking to see this skinny, filthy woman who finally crossed the line and let some awful soldier fuck her for money singing so wistfully about the better times she’d always hoped for. The camera boldly stayed right on her, close up, for the whole song and I admit I had a bit of a lump in my throat by the end of it.

There’s quite a lot to the plot – mainly involving some opera-style love at first sight, raucous slapstick from a Cockneyfied Sacha Baron Cohen as the Innkeeper and Helena Bonham Carter playing the slightly mad character she seems to play in every film she’s in, as well as quite a lot of fighting, and some serious undertones about the ghastly conditions that the poor had to endure at the time. It all ends quite triumphantly and happily though – the lovers get together, Jean VJ dies happy, there are revolutionary heroics – and the spirit, setting and acting are all there in this film version. The only thing that let it down for me was the music itself, and you can’t blame the film for that.

However, on this subject of crying. Every review you read of the film mentions that it will certainly make you cry, and there is even a video doing the rounds of some parents in a car saying they cried more at this than at some relatives’ funerals. I almost felt obliged to bloody well cry as soon as the film started. I do find this celebration of weeping pretty irritating though, as it seems to devalue the specialness of things that genuinely make me shed a tear. Anyway, the trendy boy sitting next to me had definitely received the memo because he started blubbing about 10 minutes in and barely stopped for the remaining 2 hours and 27 minutes. There were short pauses every couple of minutes or so for him to rustle around, fidget and then stuff another fistful of stinking peanut M&Ms into his Shoreditchly-moustachioed face, before one of the characters would get watery-eyed or sing something – anything – and he was off again. Honestly. I do recommend the actual cinema though – the film, yeah sure, it’s definitely worth a go, and really you don’t have to feel like you’re being an ice queen bitch if you don’t cry, I promise.

Thursday night was certainly not a weep-fest. I’d bought a pretty expensive ticket to the Royal Opera House itself to see the first night of Harrison Birtwistle’s 2008 opera The Minotaur. I wanted to see what it was like to have a really good view and be among some of the posh people (rather than practically touching the ceiling and only able to see 20% of the stage!). The opera tells the story of Asterios, the half-man-half-bull incarcerated in the labyrinth by King Minos of Crete, and to whom a sacrifice of ‘innocents’ – young men and women from Athens – is made every year. One year Theseus decides he’s had enough of this and comes over from Athens with the intention of killing this Minotaur once and for all.  The opera begins with Ariadne sitting on the beach, musing about the horror of the innocents coming over to be slaughtered. The staging is pretty sparse, but it does a great job of taking you away from any association with the modern world. You are transported to a time of myth, where strange and horrible things happen, but you accept them because there’s nothing to make it seem out of context.

After a bit of chat between Ariadne and Theseus, the innocents descend ladders into the labyrinth and the scene cuts to the middle of it, where the Minotaur stands, surrounded by a taunting Greek chorus in masks. It’s all a bit frightening. The innocents come in and the Minotaur rapes and gores them one by one, before a horrid troupe of Keres (kind of death-eater type creatures) swoop in to devour their remains. Nice. The Minotaur is tired after all his gorey-rapey action so he takes a nap and we see him dreaming. It was at this point that the opera really came alive – in his dreams Asterios believes he can speak, so we get to hear the brilliant John Tomlinson actually singing rather than just making anguished moo sounds. What I wasn’t prepared for was how sorry I would feel for the poor creature. To be fair, he was born out of a pretty dodgy situation: King Minos wanted to prove that he was the legitimate king, so he asked Poseidon (sea god) to send him a sign. Poseidon sent a white bull from the sea (sure), which Minos was to sacrifice. However Minos was so pleased with his white bull that he kept it. Poseidon was fuuuuuuriously angry to be disobeyed and as revenge made Minos’s wife develop zoophiliac desires towards the bull. She then persuaded some other guy to make her a cow suit and seduced the white bull into having sex with her. The issue was the Minotaur – half man, half bull. Shunned and rejected, full of lust and anger, neither fully man nor fully beast, and not great to look at either, poor Asterios has lived his life in torment, all the more so because the Oracle advised Minos to stick him in this horrible labyrinth underground. He dreams of the world above that he vaguely remembers, and wishes he was dead, or loved. It’s actually really sad.

Thankfully at this point it was the interval so I nipped across the road to the pub (most of the pit orchestra were there already) for a stiff drink. In the second half, Ariadne goes to visit a transvestite high Priestess with a pedantic assistant to ask for advice and they give her a big ball of red twine that she is to supply to Theseus so that he can enter the maze, paying out the twine as he goes, and use it to find his way back once he’s done in the evil freak. Before the ultimate fight scene we see the Minotaur dreaming again, and Ariadne does some slightly disturbing sex poses to a) demonstrate what her mum did with the white sea bull and b) try to seduce Theseus and persuade him to take her away from this horrid island. As you can guess, things end badly for the Minotaur as Theseus stabs him to death. In death, as in sleep, Asterios can speak, and, despite what I said about this not being a weep-fest, his final pathetic farewell had me fairly close to real tears.

Things then got quite jolly as there was rapturous applause and at the end of the curtain call – at which composer Harrison Birtwistle, librettist David Harsent and conductor Ryan Wigglesworth were present (the latter was a couple of years below me at University… he’s certainly made a more glamorous career for himself than I have!) - Tonys Hall and Pappano came on stage with a nice cake to present to John Tomlinson to celebrate the fact that 35 years ago he made his ROH debut. There was a lot of clapping to do.

I spent the journey home thinking about the very different events of the past three nights. I loved La Bohème, and Les Misérables was pretty exciting, but I think it was actually The Minotaur that touched me the most. It’s unlikely in a way: though expensive, my seat wasn’t hugely comfortable, and the person next to me was snoring all the way through; the music itself was almost impenetrable – not a single tune and no rhythms to hang onto; the story is bleak and tragic and there was a lot of blood violence and creepy wraith things eating people’s hearts; and the human characters are not very nice people – they all have a selfish agenda and say a lot of airy fairy stuff without really connecting. However, the libretto is absolutely beautiful – if I hadn’t worried that the stewards would cut my arms off for doing it, I would have whipped out my iphone at several points to note down some of the lovely, poetic lines. John Tomlinson’s singing was a huge highlight too – in his speech Tony Pappano mentioned the singer’s reputation for perfect diction and it was well-demonstrated here. His costume was also excellent, and his acting even better. Overall it was his depiction of this wretched beast that really got to me – much more than the expiry of dear Mimi or the many thou-shalt-now-cry moments in Les Misérables.

As mentioned, the culturecake project is nearing its end, or at least this phase of it is. Thank you to the kind companions who’ve joined me for my trips out. The last one will be on Sunday, when hopefully I will actually take some photos, and perhaps write a little bit less…


Thursday, 20 December 2012

7: Kensal Green Cemetery


Harrow Road, London, W10 4RA
www.kensalgreencemetery.com
Visited on Wednesday 19 December 2012

I have always been fascinated by what goes on behind the ‘presented’ parts of London. Those narrow back streets or railway yards or waste grounds that you don’t see from the main road seem to have an air of dilapidated and abandoned beauty to them. If you don’t know what I mean, try taking a train on the London Overground. As the name implies, this is a set of routes that make up the London suburban network and most of the stations and lines are above ground. It was established in the mid-2000s more as an exercise in branding than anything else, bringing together existing services operated by a disparate group of rail companies by giving the stations consistent signage. As of 9 December this year, the network has been fully joined up, and is largely located in Zone 2, allowing you to travel horizontally across London in a way that’s not really serviced by the Underground. Trains snake their way past ordinary people’s back gardens and round the back of big buildings, taking the traveller on a journey through the unglamorous, functional parts of town. Tube trains rumble beneath these areas too, and buses crawl along the traffic-heavy main roads but it is only really on the Overground that you get to see London backstage.

I had never been to Kensal Rise before, though it’s only 25 minutes on the train from Dalston Junction. The destination was Kensal Green Cemetery, one of London’s ‘Magnificent Seven’ cemeteries built in the 1830s and 40s. I’d first read about these in a book called ‘Necropolis’ by Catharine Arnold, which details the history of London and its dead since Roman times. By the late 1820s, London’s inner-city burial grounds were becoming dangerously overcrowded. Graves were being dug that already contained bodies, and there were stories of corpses being flushed into the sewer system. Decaying matter in the drinking water of the living led to epidemics and Something had to be done. In 1832 Parliament passed a bill encouraging privately-owned and run cemeteries to be established outside the city and over the next decade seven were built: Kensal Green, West Norwood, Highgate, Abney Park (in Stoke Newington), Nunhead, Brompton and Tower Hamlets.

Suspicious man with umbrella and brass pig

Kensal Green was set up in 1833 by the General Cemetery Company, which still runs it today, and was inspired by the Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris. According to Ms Arnold’s book, cemeteries like this were known as the Great Gardens of Sleep. They were large, landscaped areas with carefully planted trees and pathways laid out so that both mourners and the general public could stroll around at a dignified remove from the departed and without actually stepping on their final resting places. They were also profit-making businesses, and interment in the catacombs or the erection of a mausoleum could cost a small fortune. While burial was still the preferred method of dealing with a body, the Magnificent Seven enjoyed roaring trade – if you’re in the business of death, you’re hardly going to run out of customers. However, by the early 1900s cremation started to become fashionable, as several high profile celebrities, including a member of the Royal Family (Princess Louise, Duchess of Connaught), were disposed of this way. The trend gathered momentum throughout the 20th century, and this spelled bad news for the cemetery companies that hadn’t moved with the times, or didn’t have the room to install a crematorium on site. As a result several of them went out of business and fell into disrepair – Abney Park and Highgate are both examples of this. These days they exist not only as places that contain monuments to the dead, but also as monuments themselves – to that particular Victorian way of memorialising the deceased with lavish headstones, sepulchral statues and grandiose tombs. Thankfully both cemeteries have been taken over by local councils and are looked after by volunteers who keep the pathways clear, and maintain the organised chaos of fallen stones covered with ivy and swaths of undergrowth and now mature trees that provide a home for many species of birds and other wildlife. Nature has no respect for our forgotten and long-unvisited graves it seems.

The owners of Kensal Green got with the programme however and established the West London Crematorium within the cemetery grounds in 1939, although business there had remained fairly healthy owing to the patronage of the place by the rich and famous from the start. It is still a working cemetery, and there are cremations and burials every day. I was interested to see it as several famous people are buried there (including Harold Pinter, William Makepeace Thackeray and Anthony Trollope), and the catacombs are the biggest and most prestigious in London. Some of the more ostentatious structures are actually listed buildings in themselves, and there is a large area set aside for Dissenters. (They were people who separated themselves from the Anglican Church in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, forming alternative Christian groups, some of whom sound like they’re straight out of a Harry Potter novel – for example Muggletonians, Seekers and Ranters).

Juice and nicely proportioned but somewhat dry Chelsea bun

Brother Neil and I decided to meet up for lunch and cake before our visit to the cemetery, and chose Minkies Deli, which is right next to Kensal Rise station. It’s a curious building, consisting of one room with glass walls on three sides, perched on a grass bank. I arrived first and secured a table, at which I was rather annoyingly joined by one of those middle aged men you see in North London who you suspect might be an intellectual celebrity – a university professor you’ve seen on a history documentary, or an archaeology expert consulted on the news or something. Anyway, he flapped his copy of the Guardian all over the table and huffed and puffed while I tucked in to my pre-lunch treat of a delicious vegetable juice (containing apple, ginger, orange, beetroot and carrot) and an endearingly small Chelsea bun. This was disappointingly dry and I began to worry about the place as the rather calamitous waitress proceeded to drop some crockery that smashed into very noisy smithereens on the floor, and several people called over that they had not received their coffee and had been waiting ten minutes. Can you imagine.

Thankfully Brother Neil showed up after a short time, with some salacious gossip to share and a positive attitude towards the rather splendid-looking sandwich menu.

Halloumi, pesto and rocket on white sourdough (Brother Neil)
‘I need carbs. It’s somewhat oily, owing to the pesto, but this is a very pleasing combination of flavours. The halloumi is moist. I’ll give it an 8.’

Avocado, tuna and boiled egg on ciabatta (thepateface)
‘This is a great idea, but there is a major problem involving temperature inconsistency – the egg is really cold, as if it’s straight out of the fridge, while the other ingredients are warm and mushy like baby food. Also, it’s a bit oily. However it’s pretty delicious if you try not to look at it. 7 out of 10.’

By this point we’d moved away from Mr Possible Prof to another table where a very nice old lady was reading a book and clearly very much enjoying her plate of chicken with cous cous and veg. We agreed that this looked really tasty, and also that we were still hungry after our sarnies. I was tempted by the very good-looking home made sausage rolls, but then we spotted The Brownie. The slightly starey other waitress told us it was triple choc and that we should treat ourselves, but frankly we didn’t need too much persuasion. There were also some super cute tiny mince pies, and I was sure I knew who might like one of those…

Cakes for beings of all sizes

Oh, Sure

Divine brownie

Triple-chocolate brownie (Brother Neil and thepateface, a slice each)
‘OMG, this is … DIVINE. It’s not cakey or crumbly, but rather is moist, almost like chocolate mousse. One of the best I’ve ever had,’ was BN’s feeling on the matter, and I concurred wholeheartedly. The first 10 out of 10 of the culturecake project!

Little mince pie (Sure)
‘…’
(he doesn’t say much, but we could tell he was very pleased)

At £20 for the entire lunch, including my rather naughty pre-lunch starter, we thought this was very reasonable and would definitely recommend this funny little deli if you’re in the area. They do breakfast and lunch as well.

After all that, we decided to steel ourselves against the rain and actually go and do the cultural thing we’d come here for. The cemetery itself is about a ten-minute walk from Kensal Rise station, and is sandwiched between the fairly busy Harrow Road and the Grand Union Canal. Of course when it was first opened, it would have had a much grander vibe to it, being on the edge of the city and away from the hubbub of central London. Nowadays there’s something quite pitiful about it. It feels like it’s been crammed in behind and between everything else, in one of those dead spaces that nobody would otherwise be interested in – the kind that you see from an Overground train. We entered through the big wrought-iron gates set in a stone arch, and the first things we noticed were two big green wheely bins with KGC scrawled on the side, a Total petrol station and Sainsbury’s visible through the leaf-less trees and, beyond the rather seedy canal, the big circular frames of the derelict Kensal Gas Works. It was muddy and drizzling and by this time also getting rather dark, and we clearly did not have suitable footwear.

Gasworks

Sodden and wonky graves


Possibly the best surname ever

Statue


We noticed quite a number of graves of people who’d died young – under the age of 40. Many of the graves had those creepy oval photographs fixed to the headstone depicting in life the occupant now below. Though some of the graves had evidently been visited recently and were adorned with garish plastic flowers or corny rhyming poems covered with cellophane, many had not, and almost all of them in this section were lopsided, the stone sinking into the soil. I always like to look at the euphemisms for death that people put on gravestones, and found my favourite one yet, which substituted ‘sunrise’ and ‘sunset’ for ‘born’ and ‘died’. It was raining by now and almost unbearably cold and we realised that this was not really the ideal day for a pleasant walk around this place. We soldiered on towards the central chapel, past some really impressive mausolea and grand headstones, eventually finding our only famous person of the day – Princess Sophia, the daughter of George III. On the other side of the chapel (which seemed actually to be abandoned) was another section containing much smarter looking graves that were evidently on more solid ground and not leaning in the melancholy fashion of the first ones we had come across. However, there was no time to explore this bit properly because it was 3.40pm and we didn’t want to get locked in when the cemetery closed at 4…

Tomb of Princess Sophia

Obligatory crows in trees

Sturdier resting places

WHOM?!


The day ended with a couple of wines in a rather strange pub called the Chamberlayne, opposite Minkies. It gradually filled up as we chatted, with a curious collection of characters, almost all men, and we had the sensation that we might have stumbled onto a David Lynch film set. We did spot a living celeb – much to Brother Neil’s delight, the actor who played Vince in the 1990s British TV series Queer as Folk came in to buy some carry-out beers.

On the whole I would recommend Minkies as a destination in itself, as they seem to have a good menu, though I imagine it is quite busy at the weekends, as there is only space for about 15 people to sit and eat. Kensal Green cemetery is definitely worth a visit, though not on a wet and cold December day. I suspect that in the spring and summer this is a rather lovely place to wander around, when it probably seems much less desolate and dreary than we found it!

Minkies

Thursday, 6 December 2012

5: 'Death: A self-portrait' at the Wellcome Collection

183 Euston Road, London, NW1 2BE
www.wellcomecollection.org
Visited on Thursday 6 December 2012


No time for fancy-dan multiple-bus routes today – I was running late for the rendezvous at Euston station with MinusTheMatt, owing to becoming far too absorbed in other project work (making Christmas tree decorations – hm is it a stretch to call that ‘project work’?!). Anyway, suffice it to say, the train from Clapton to Walthamstow and then Victoria line tube to Euston is the quickest route and is quite boring, but I arrived in time to smash a quick whopper meal at Burger King (not my classiest start to a culturecake excursion) and soon we were ready to head over to the Wellcome Collection for the exhibition ‘Death: A self-portrait’.

One great thing about this gallery is that it’s free to go to the permanent collections and all special exhibitions. Another great thing is the facial hair of the founder, Henry Wellcome (1853 – 1936). He was a pharmacist, entrepreneur and philanthropist who amassed a collection of over one million medical items during his lifetime. The Wellcome Building on Euston Road houses the Wellcome Collection, one of three galleries dedicated to this magnificently moustachioed man’s original vision, and its rather pleasing strapline reads ‘The free destination for the incurably curious’. Right up my street then.


Very wise words

‘Death: A self-portrait’ comprises items from the collection of Richard Harris, a former antique print dealer from Chicago, and is devoted to his fascination with our complex and contradictory attitudes towards death. The five rooms were dimly lit, with spotlights strategically positioned to throw eerie shadows on the walls. Throughout, we could hear the murmurings of an interview on repeat being shown on the TV in the final room, featuring Mr Harris himself talking about what inspired him to bring these pieces together. I was very pleased with the free booklet that provides a guide to the exhibition, designed almost in the manner of a funeral order of service book.

Nice, and informative, free thing

Through paintings, sculptures, photographs and drawings from a wide range of artists and ordinary people, Harris took us on a journey through the big philosophical concepts concerning death and dying. We began with a series of vanitas paintings – which I learned is a particular type of symbolic still life from the 16th and 17th centuries, intended to remind the viewer of the transient nature of life on earth. They often include a human skull, juxtaposed with things that we might treasure (money, ornaments, jewellery) or ephemeral items like cut flowers. The message is clear – pretty or ‘valuable’ things last a short time, but death lasts forever. This reminded me of a great verse from the Bible (I once read the whole of the Old Testament) (yes, I know) – ‘No matter how long you live, remember you will be dead much longer’ (Ecclesiastes 11:8). Ecclesiastes was apparently written by ‘The Philosopher’, a man who didn’t really understand the ways of God but gave sensible advice on working hard and enjoying life as best you can given that there isn’t so much of it. It was the most interesting book in the Bible I thought, apart from the ones I knew from the New Testament with the Nativity stories, which are pretty heart-warming.

Anyway, moving on to the second room, we found a series of pieces concerned with the inevitability of death. The notion of the Danse Macabre appeared from the late Medieval period onwards, when Europe was ravaged by wars, famines and plagues. It was represented in all sorts of art, including music, painting and sculpture, and addresses the idea that death is the great leveller – it comes to everyone whether they are popes or paupers, peasants or kings, women or men – but it’s also something of a reveller too. Here were paintings showing skeletons and corpses cavorting with the living, perhaps to remind people that frivolous dancing and self-indulgent behaviour brings you closer to The End. They also offered a humorous perspective and reflected on the absurdity of life. One piece we particularly liked in this room was a little tin and wire sculpture of a skeleton sitting on a table, looking like he was just taking a breather from the party. The works here certainly showed death as something that could be our friend as much as our enemy – whatever the case, it is ever-present and ineluctable.

The third room contained some quite difficult drawings by Goya showing death brought about by war. They are hard to look at not so much because they show dead bodies, but because they show them in such a way that your imagination can’t help supplying the narrative immediately prior to the moment that’s been depicted. The bodies themselves are limp and motionless, but they’ve been brought to that point through horrible violence. A bit depressing.

The fourth room was very interesting, containing a variety of pieces focusing on what Freud described as the ‘eternal conflict at the centre of human civilisation: the instinct towards life and towards destruction’. Many of the works here were both repellent and compelling at the same time. One painting showing a skeleton in an unmistakably sensual pose with a woman was disturbing somehow and yet I couldn’t help looking at it. In the middle of the room was a realistic sculpture of about half a human body – it was missing one leg from the thigh downwards, as well as its bottom jaw and one of its arms. From behind it looked like a man sitting up, but from the front it was a shocking and rather gruesome representation of a human torn apart. Tough stuff!

The final room featured a wide range of pieces focusing on commemoration. It is clear that whatever culture we belong to, we like to feel connected to those who have already died while we ourselves are still alive. There were Tibetan ceremonial bowls from the 1600s made out of human skulls, and photos of modern-day Mexicans posing with wreaths made out of marigolds as part of their Day of the Dead rituals. The items I liked the most were a series of photos taken by anonymous ordinary people, showing groups of the living posing with macabre props such as skeletons or skulls. One of these showed a bunch of what could have been anatomy students with a skeleton, in whose mouth they’d placed a cigar, which was being lit by a leery-looking young man. The photo was dated 1918 – which means that probably all the people in the shot are now as dead as the prop…

After all this, we came to the kind of exit room, on the wall of which there was a huge infographic, specially commissioned from David McCandless. He’s the author and designer of an excellent book called Information is Beautiful, which Brother B Man the Mystic bought me for Christmas a couple of years ago, and which contains graphic representations of all sorts of interesting stats. This one showed the approximate number of people to have died from all the various causes since records began. Cancer and disease were the main culprits – war, jellyfish, Chlamydia and philosophy less so. Interesting. Though perhaps not as interesting as the google search I just did to check ‘is cancer a disease’, as I was unsure as to its medical classification. Hilarious what google thought I might have been looking for, based on me entering the word ‘is’ into the search bar!

The X Factor PR team are all over this issue I'm sure

OK enough of all the death and dying and onto the very live subject of CAKES. I had been advised that the café here is ‘amazing’, but I am afraid to say that we did not find this to be the case (sorry Brother Neil). In its defence, it has a wonderful set of lights above the seating area, which contains nice tables and retro-styled chairs. It’s situated in the entrance hall area of the building and is united in open-plan fashion with the shop, so you can scope out your goods while sipping your tea. Good.

Good lights

Cake with your cellophane?

Not home made

MinusTheMatt opted for a slightly off-programme food selection of pie and beer, while I went for the traditional latte and tart. At £13, this was the cheapest refreshment run of the project so far, but as MTM axiomatically observed: you get what you pay for in this life…

Pork pie with piccalilli and a bottle of Budvar (MinusTheMatt)
“The pastry-to-filling ratio is a bit off. The meat part is not spicy at all, in fact this is the blandest pork pie I’ve ever had in my life. Well below average. I’m going to say this is a 4.5 out of 10. The beer? Well, it’s beer, so yeah fine.”

Treacle tart with latte
“The mug is quite a nice shape, but the coffee tastes a bit machiney. In fact this whole thing has the air of production-line rather than homemade. I am suspicious of the fact that many of the cakes are individually wrapped in cellophane and that the people serving are a bit obsessive about the use of latex gloves. The texture of the tart is a bit claggy, and the whole thing tastes more of lemon than treacle. It’s poor, but I’m hungry so I’ll eat it anyway. Still, 4.5 is the most I can give this.”

The fact that there were no napkins and no forks, added to the above, meant that we were a bit disappointed with the whole café experience. The shop, however, which is in fact a branch of Blackwell’s, was pretty good. I bought the card pictured above showing Henry Wellcome, plus two books – one called ‘Death’ by Geoffrey Scarre, which is about the philosophical questions raised by death, and one called ‘Immortality’ by one of my favourite novelists, Milan Kundera. Good goods.

Apologies for the small number of photos in this post – there were several very clear signs up in the exhibition saying that photography was not allowed. I did get Sure out of my pocket once or twice to look at things, but he didn’t have too much to say.

All in all ‘Death: A self-portrait’ was quite good, but I’m not sure I would really recommend it as a brilliant exhibition to go to. It was certainly thought-provoking, but you could probably just look up ‘images of death’ online if you’re interested and that would get you thinking just as much. I do rate the gallery as a whole though, and there is a lot more to see than the one thing we went too. The fact that it’s totally free is excellent, and I was very pleased with my rather nice booklet.